1. Blocks and patterns.
These enable the designer to render something flat using paper or fabric into something 3D. They are laid on fabric, cut out and assembles together using seams.
A block is a 2D template used for a basic garment form that can be modified into more elaborate designs. Blocks are constructed using measurements - they do not show seam allowance.
This is the block I used, it shows the front and back, feature lines and dart points.
A pattern is developed from a design sketch using a block. I have copied the block onto pattern paper. This can used for pinning onto fabric to gain the shape.
Dart manipulation
Darts control the excess fabric to create a shape on a garment. They can be stictched together end to end or to a zero point (pivotal point). Adding the darts is the most creative and flexible part of pattern cutting. This technique creates shape, fit and volume, they also change the style and design of a garment.
Creating a toile
This is a test piece that I have used by using my pattern. It is a test to see if the parts match up and how the seam allowance will work. It was a sucessful run, and I was able to transfer it onto the calico fabric.
These are the final parts of my waistcoat. It shows the two front parts and the doubled back part. The darts have been made and are in place.
I have sewn all of the parts together, to create a toile. This image shows my waistcoat at the stage of it having just been sewn together, with any unwanted material/threads removed.
Adding buttons/holes and seam finishes
I have used plastic buttons on my waistcoat. To attach them, I hand-sewed the buttons onto the fabric, then using the sewing machine and button hole tools, I made three button holes.
The raw edge of a seam allowance usually needs treating to stop the fabric from fraying.
I have chosen to use the overlocker on my waistcoat to overlock the edges, as this is the cheapest and easiest way to clean up an edge.
(Reference - FISCHER, A. 2009. CONSTRUCTION, SWITZERLAND: AVA )
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