Reflection

After completing this project I feel that it has been successful. The main skills that I feel I have developed throughout this module include gaining knowledge of pattern cutting and uses of these, and understanding blocks and patters and their purpose. This takes into account the early stages through to manufacture.

My final block toile turned out well and I am pleased with the result. It is the design I planned and the final toile was fit for purpose.

Improvements for future work/projects similar to this could be to work on finishing techniques such as overlocking. I did manage to overlock my waistcoat; however, more practice is key.

Construction of my toile.

The following shows a few stages of my process of making my toile.


1. Blocks and patterns.

These enable the designer to render something flat using paper or fabric into something 3D. They are laid on fabric, cut out and assembles together using seams.

A block is a 2D template used for a basic garment form that can be modified into more elaborate designs. Blocks are constructed using measurements - they do not show seam allowance.



This is the block I used, it shows the front and back, feature lines and dart points.



A pattern is developed from a design sketch using a block.

I have copied the block onto pattern paper. This can used for pinning onto fabric to gain the shape.

Dart manipulation

Darts control the excess fabric to create a shape on a garment. They can be stictched together end to end or to a zero point (pivotal point). Adding the darts is the most creative and flexible part of pattern cutting. This technique creates shape, fit and volume, they also change the style and design of a garment.

Creating a toile

This is a test piece that I have used by using my pattern. It is a test to see if the parts match up and how the seam allowance will work. It was a sucessful run, and I was able to transfer it onto the calico fabric.

These are the final parts of my waistcoat. It shows the two front parts and the doubled back part. The darts have been made and are in place.

I have sewn all of the parts together, to create a toile. This image shows my waistcoat at the stage of it having just been sewn together, with any unwanted material/threads removed.

Adding buttons/holes and seam finishes

I have used plastic buttons on my waistcoat. To attach them, I hand-sewed the buttons onto the fabric, then using the sewing machine and button hole tools, I made three button holes.

The raw edge of a seam allowance usually needs treating to stop the fabric from fraying.

I have chosen to use the overlocker on my waistcoat to overlock the edges, as this is the cheapest and easiest way to clean up an edge.



















(Reference - FISCHER, A. 2009. CONSTRUCTION, SWITZERLAND: AVA )

CAD - SpeedStep

CAD is widely used in textiles to create garments, patterns, add colour, patterns, etc.

Software such as SpeedStep is very useful for creating fashion items, accessories, designs for outputs, etc.

In education, software such as this can be used to accompany textiles based projects, used to produce designs for construction/cloting, also for use with outputs such as sublimation printing, etc. Also, certain software allows for colurs, patters, etc to be added to designs, to make them more real and visual.

Here, I have used SpeedStep to create a design of my waistcoat toile. I have drew out the design using ProSketch, and added colour using ProPainter. 

This is another textile design that I have created using the same software.

Textiles - Mass Production

Systems & Techniques -


In textiles, made-to-measure is another way to express bespoke construction.

Measuring-

Measuring can usually begin with cardboard patterns. Also, the use of CAD systems in designs can mean that measurements can be used to accurate scales. These are two examples of initial procedures, and both do the same job, but use different techniques.

The use of CAD means that digitalising simple patterns can be quick and other CAD advantages allows the user to create patterns for a full range of sizes. Due to the tolerance, some designers believe that cutting out material using CAD/CAM is better than using material such as cardboard.

For most textiles products, keeping costs down means producing more than one item at a time.

Cutting-

Types of blades/cutters include:

Straight blade: can cut up to 50 layers and cuts out most fabrics.

Round blade: has a coarse gauge and is used on knitted fabrics.

Dye cutters: applies massive pressure and is used on garments such as thermal vests and knitted jumpers.

Assembly-

Single needle: used for – lockstitching, joining, single line.

Over locker: used for – edging, joining, hemming.

Twin needle: used for – cover seaming.

Button hole: used for – cutting at the button hole, stitching button.

Control points-

Fabric: colour/tone, light box.

        : marks/stains, weave errors, knitting errors.

Assembly: marks/stains, machine oil, excess threads.

Every garment is checked for mistakes à quality control.

Robust machinery, highly skilled workers, effective management systems à are all combined to make production efficient.

Batch systems are used if the nature of the garment is relatively simple.

Keywords

For this project, the keywods that I will be focussing on and refering to are:


Block - acts as a template, it is used for measurements and accurate replicas.

Toile - used as a prototype, it is done before the actual garment making.

Pattern adaptation - altering the block to match your design.

Seam allowance - is a measurement used from the edge of a pattern, it is used for sewing on.

ADVANCED MANUFACTURING -
MODULE TASK 1 -
ADVANCED TEXTILES